Holland America MS Amsterdam Travelogue #9
Kodiak,Alaska
June 5, 2011
First thing today I want to wish my daughter Stephanie a very Happy Birthday! Time goes by so quickly – your baby is born and before you know it, she is a grown woman with three sons of her own; and I am a proud Gramma! I hope you have a wonderful day!
Kodiak Island is one of the largest commercial fishing ports in the United States. MS Amsterdam pulled into the city of Kodiak around 9:30 a.m. It was partly cloudy and there was a crispness in the air; although the wind was not blowing as it was yesterday in Homer. Our ship was moored at the only place large enough to accommodate a ship this size and was about ¾ of a mile from town. We could see the rugged coastline out of our port side window. Kodiak Island did not appear to have any snow capped mountains on it from our vantage point. It did, however, have some elevated hills that were home to several large windmills that were turning regularly. They look strong and efficient against the green grass on the hills with the blue sky beyond.
Shortly after breakfast, we got word from the Shore Excursions staff that our tour had been cancelled due to engine problems on the craft we were scheduled to be on. Knowing that we did not have much time in Kodiak today (we were leaving at 2:00 p.m.) we scurried down to the Purser’s Desk to find out what other options we might have. From there we were told to disembark the ship and find Michelle of the Shore Excursions staff on the pier. Michelle was easy to find with her red windbreaker coat and walkie-talkie in hand. The only option we had we another similar marine wildlife tour. As luck would have it, they only had two seats left – and so we booked it right then. We went back to our cabin to gather our things and headed out once again.
There were eight of us in our group; and we were shuttled down to the marina in a taxi and greeted there by our Marine Biologist Swengard, from Germany. Our vessel was about a 45 foot cabin cruiser with an enclosed portion housing the wheelhouse up front, the galley to the right and a bench seat and table that wrapped around the left side from the front to the back door. On the table was a nice variety of munchies including chocolate chip cookies, potato chips and homemade salmon spread and crackers. There was coffee, tea, soft drinks and bottled water for us to drink if we were so inclined.
After our safety talk, Captain Chris maneuvered the boat out of its slip and we were on our way. There was another one of the Deadliest Catch boats in the marina. Swengard said that several of the boats used in that TV series have come in and out of Kodiak. As we moved slowly inside the breakwater, we saw another sea otter and a young bald eagle. The sun was starting to really break through the clouds giving way to another glorious day to be in Alaska and see an area we have never traveled to before.
One of the things that Jim and I had so hoped to see in Kodiak was the bears. But, we were told that of you want to see the bears, you must hire a bush pilot or sea plane who will take you about 200 miles and towards the southeast end of the island or out to Afognak Island with is northeast of Kodiak. Swengard also said that the bears do not come out of hibernation until the end of June and July when the salmon are really running. After we got beyond the breakwater, Captain Chris took us out between Woody Island and Long Island out in the Chiniak Bay. These two islands had significantly different topography than that of the other islands we have seen before here in Alaska. Most often, the islands are rugged rocks with jagged cliffs and lots and lots of trees, Woody Island and Long Island have long, black sandy beaches and many areas that are flat like valleys and acres of green grass.
Long Island is a rookery for sea lions. We were able to get quite close to hundreds of them as they were basking in the sun and yelping. Above and around them were hundreds of puffins. Gull Island out of Homer was a rookery to gulls, red legged cormorants, common murres and only a few puffin. This was quite the opposite. There were “logs” of puffins in the frigid waters along with some black legged cormorants.
What I found fascinating about Long Island and Woody Island, however, were the remnants of World War II gun mounts and concrete bunkers. Captain Chris said that during WWII, three Japanese submarines were actually spotted from those bunkers. Today when we passed, there were two bald eagles perched proudly on the grassy roof as if they were there keeping a watchful eye.
I spotted another young bald eagle or golden eagle sitting alone on top of some jagged rocks at one part of Long Island.
As Captain Chris turned the boat to head back to the marina, the deckhand grabbed a fishing pole and through his line over to see if he could get something to bite. Sure enough, about 15 minutes later, he began to reel in a large rock fish. After Swengard showed us how to hold him and talked about the different fish in the area, she threw him back in and he quickly disappeared under the water.
Our excursion ended back in the marina. Six of our group wanted to go into town and do some shopping. Jim and I were met by Captain Chris’ wife who gave us a short personal tour of Kodiak taking us by the Russian Orthodox Church and the seminary – both of which are quite distinguishable by the round blue domes and gold crosses on the top. We passed by the Kodiak Museum which is housed in one of the oldest buildings in southeast Alaska and then were driven back to the ship.
We enjoyed a lazy afternoon and evening. We joined Jim and Mary up on the Crow’s Nest for Team Trivia – and we won! - not because Jim or I had anything to offer. The topic was 80’s music and songs and neither of us knew more than one or two answers. Jim and Mary, on the other hand, were the brains of the group and carried us to the winning circle!!
Tonight I enjoyed some Hazelnut crusted salmon and some beef tenderloin along with a shrimp cocktail and a very small Caesar salad. The maitre’d made some crème bruleé for our table for dessert. Jim and I both said that my recipe is much much better. But, it was kind of him to indulge us in a special dessert.
We sailed out of Kodiak and in to Prince William Sound heading for Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier tomorrow afternoon. There were lots of whale spout sightings but none were close enough to get any good pictures. I went out on deck at one point to try to take a picture and the cold air and wind were too much and I quickly retreated inside. Till tomorrow…
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