Holland America MS Amsterdam Travelogue #7
Anchorage
A week goes by so quickly when you are on vacation! It is even days since we boarded the ship in Seattle and now, our cruise is already half over. I can honestly say that this has been a wonderful respite for me and I am completely and totally relaxed. I love Alaska – oh – but then you know that already don’t you!?
Last year the city of Anchorage dredged the channel in the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet and made way so cruise ships could actually call on the city of Anchorage now. Before this, they had to either stop at Whittier or Seward and the passengers would have to either take a motor coach or the train up to Anchorage. The port is downtown and virtually 5 minutes away from the Alaska Railroad terminal. This is where we caught our train for our all day adventure on the Alaska Railroad today.
We boarded car D and soon were heading through the port district along the Cook Inlet. The tide was low and therefore the mud flats were exposed. Though it appears that you could walk far out, these mud flats are like quick sand. You must be very cautious when venturing out there, because there is a 20-25 foot range in tide; and if the tide starts coming in, you could get stuck out there.
The train began to travel adjacent to the Sterling Highway along the Turnagain Arm. When Captain Cook came here in search of the Northwest Passage, he sailed his boat into this inlet of water and because of the tides, had to turn around and try to come back in again and again. Thus, Captain Cook named it Turnagain Arm. Across the water from the mainland is the Kenai Peninsula with its snow capped mountain peaks and thick forest of green.
We passed Potters Marsh, which is a wildlife and bird refuge with wooden walking platforms throughout the area for viewing. We continued on to Girdwood, the home of Alyeska Ski Resort. This area is also known as Glacier Valley. The turnoff for Girdwood is an area where there is still visible evidence of the results of the devastating earthquake on Good Friday on 1964. The ground dropped 6 feet and was immediately covered with the salt water for the Turnagain Arm which in turn killed all of the trees. There are three wooden roof tops that you can see from the side of the road – that is all that remains along with the grey tree trunks from all the trees that were submerged and died shortly afterwards because of the high tide from the tsunami.
The train went all the way to Whittier, although I do not understand why. We were not allowed to disembark the train to even take pictures. Nonetheless, it gave us a glimpse of Whittier – a small port south of Anchorage in the Chugach Mountain Range. The train changed direction and we began to go backwards to Portage, where we changed tracks and started out towards the Kenai Peninsula. We passed Spencer Glacier to our left about a mile away. While we were climbing the mountain to Grandview a large black bear was off to our right foraging through the bushes – probably looking for fresh berries. We were so far away that I could not get a clear picture – but I do have the shadow of the bear amongst the brush.
The further and further up the mountain we climbed, the more and more patches of snow were around us. From the bright green baby skunk cabbage and fresh ferns to the new spring shoots on the low lying brush that grew into aspen and cottonwood trees with the tender leaves blowing gently in the wind and then patches of tall pines, the valley below us was a patchwork of colors and textures because of the diverse landscape. Every now and then I saw a purple lupine sprouting up amongst the grasses. In the distance was a glacial river that meandered through the valley floor that was grayish turquoise in color from the glacial silt. It was so picturesque!
The train passed by Trail Glacier and Bartlett Glacier finally up to Grandview where we made a brief stop. By now, there was a misty rain falling from the clouds that somehow made everything fresher to me.
Every time I am in Alaska I am in awe of this spectacular great land. Seeing the snow capped mountains above the tree line is so beautiful to me and I know that I am truly in a very special place and when I visit it, I am somehow at home. Alaska is so incredibly magnificent. Each time I am here I am lucky to see new places and more astonishing views and vistas. My heart is happy here.
As I sit on the train now and jot down my notes, I cannot believe the view out my window. The clouds are high enough that I can see the sweeping rise from the valley floor to the mountain tops with the crevices of the mountain packed with snow that is now melting off with warmer weather and creating cascading waterfalls down the mountains. We saw a huge eagle nest with an eagle inside; but the train whisked by so quickly that I did not have enough time to get a clear picture. We also saw a moose in amongst the brush.
I wish I could explain how pristine and beautiful this is. I try to convey that in my journal notes and with my pictures; but somehow I do not feel even that gives it justice.
Our Alaska Railroad guide was a young man in high school and working as a guide for the summer. We spoke with him several times when he passed through the train car. The guides told us a story of Alaska Nellie who made her home in Grandview in the early 1900’s. It was quite interesting and I hope to be able to find the book about her in one of the book stores. They said that her husband was the man who held the key that unlocked her heart to love.
There have been a few people we have met on our cruise who have complained about the cold weather here. Some have said they are bored. Some have said they wanted to get to Anchorage so they could go shopping – at Walmart! To me – that is a shame and a travesty. The air may be brisk; but I think it is invigorating. It is clean and fresh and without pollution. The stars on a clear night seem so close you think you can reach out and touch them. Most of us who live in the lower 48 states have no idea how bright and spectacular the Milky Way truly is. Up here, it is larger than life. And with the Star Walk app for my iPad, I can go out on my balcony at night and hold it up towards the sky and I can see all the constellations right before my eyes. Technology is mind-boggling to me.
As we approached Anchorage on the way back to the ship, we spotted some Dahl sheep high on the jagged cliff above us. After we returned to the ship we enjoyed a light dinner in the Lido buffet and then called it a day. Tomorrow we will be in Homer, Alaska. Till then…
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