Holland America MS Amsterdam Travelogue #10
Hubbard Glacier, Alaska
June 6, 2011
When we left Kodiak, Alaska yesterday, we sailed in to the Gulf of Alaska heading south. The seas were a bit rough again, and the dining room guests seemed somehow to be fewer than normal.
The snow capped mountains of the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain Range could be seen off of the port side of the ship. This is the side our cabin is on. So, we had unobstructed views right from our balcony. We could see several large tidewater and piedmont glaciers out our window – the largest of which is the Malaspina Glacier, a tidewater glacier. We could also see Bering Glacier which is a huge piedmont glacier (its glacial ice does not meet the water but is instead land locked). Mt. St. Elias stands an impressive 18,008 feet tall.
Once again, we have been blessed with another gloriously sunny day! There were a few clouds over the mountains, but visibility was excellent. As we approached Yakutat Bay, the Amsterdam slowed down to board a couple of U.S. Park Rangers and three Tlingit natives. They gave several presentations during the day about this area, its history and native culture. When the natives arrived up in the Crow’s Nest on the Amsterdam, they were wearing hand-beaded vests with their native tribal sign delicately and intricately beaded on the back with several other native symbols on the front. One appeared to be an eagle, one was a whale and the other could possibly have been the symbol for the raven. They never told us what they were. I tried to take pictures of them through the crowd of people, but only was able to get one good one before someone moved in the way.
The natives were Tlingit and lived about 25 miles south of Hubbard Glacier. Hubbard Glacier is the longest tidewater glacier in Alaska and is within the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park that encompasses 13.2 million acres. It equals six Yellowstone National Parks. Wrangell-St. Elias, Kluane National Park in Canada and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve along with theTatshenshini Provincial Park in British Columbia are a World Heritage Site and encompass 24 million acres of protected land. Though Mt. Wrangell is still considered an active volcano, it has not erupted since 1990.
Hubbard Glacier is located in Yakutat Bay. As the Amsterdam approached the entrance of the bay, we could not help but notice Hubbard Glacier at the end. It is six miles wide; and with the sunshine that we were blessed with, we could see not only the glacier and the mountains of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park beyond it. The snow capped peaks were magnificent against the blue sky above.
Yakutat Bay was full of small bergie bits and so our Captain and the local Pilot proceeded very cautiously and slowly into the area. The waters of Yakutat Bay were calm and still. Most everyone onboard the ship was out on the upper decks to be able to see this extraordinary venue. And, yes, most of us had a camera or binoculars around our necks. The reflections from the mountains in the waters we passed through were like a mirror. I do not believe that I can even describe how spectacular this experience was; and I doubt that my pictures will do it justice either. There are times when things are almost indescribably; and that is how I felt about visiting Hubbard Glacier today. We have all read poems or heard song lyrics that describe the beauty and majesty – but sometimes nothing will do it justice because it is so incredibly beautiful and astonishing.
There was a mama seal and her pup floating on a nearby iceberg. Mama was asleep and the pup lay next to her. Seagulls flew above us and a few bald eagles were also seen.
From the entrance of Yakutat Bay, the valleys of fresh green grass filled the valleys with pine trees dotting the landscape. Eventually the tree line could be seen further up the mountain that gave way to purples and blues and then the snow began to fill the crevices to the mountain tops. All of this was on our way into Yakutat Bay. To the north, Mount St. Elias could be seen standing proudly.
The last time Jim and I visited Hubbard Glacier, the Captain would not venture in any further than six miles from the face of the glacier. That was quite disappointing. It was beautiful – but difficult to really experience the glacier in all of its glory from that distance. Today, our Captain took us to within about 4 miles from the face of the glacier. The further and further we cruised into the bay, the better we could see the detail of the grand vista before us. This time, we were actually able to see the glacial rivers of ice flowing to the head of the glacier from either side up the mountain valleys. And, we could see the small island that is about 2 miles from the face of the glacier. Last time, we had no idea there was even an island there.
Once the Captain and pilot took us in as far as they felt we could go, they stopped the ship and maneuvered the ship first to the starboard side and then to the port side facing the glacier. When they did this, Jim and I were up on the Sports deck along with several hundred other passengers. Many of us climbed up onto the railing around the Plexiglas wind barriers so we could have an unobstructed view. It was a lot of fun up there because everyone was so excited to see Hubbard Glacier.
Eventually, and all too soon for most people, the Amsterdam turned around and headed back out towards the Gulf of Alaska. As we left, one lone orca whale came into the bay and was seen in the distance. We all expressed our concern for the mama seal and her pup that we had seen earlier on the iceberg and hoped they stayed safe atop their ice float.
As the day ended, everyone on board was commenting on how truly lucky and blessed we have been to have such exceptional weather during our cruise to Alaska. We headed down south along the Fairweather Mountain Range where Mt. Fairweather stands tall. We have not had many sunsets along our way; but tonight when the sun set, the skies had a pink hue that cast a very peaceful hue on the snow capped mountains.
Before dinner most evenings, we have gone up to the Crow’s Nest to play evening trivia. Along with our teammates, Jim & Mary and Andie & Joe, we have managed to win several of the games. Some nights are more challenging than others; but it is fun, and we’ve thoroughly enjoyed it.
Tomorrow we’ll arrive in Sitka. Till then…
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