Showing posts with label Denali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Denali. Show all posts

Monday, July 12, 2010

DAY ELEVEN - TRAVELOGUES NORTH TO ALASKA - DENALI NATIONAL PARK

TRAVELOGUES – DAY ELEVEN – JULY 10th – DENALI NATIONAL PARK
TUNDRA WILDERNESS TOUR
HOLLAND AMERICA MS VOLENDAM
13 DAY CRUISE/TOUR
“NORTH TO ALASKA”

Did you know that wildlife seekers are far more certain to see animals than baseball fans are to see home runs? This is true – and our Tundra Wilderness Tour into Denali National Park today was actually a grand slam.,

McKinley National Park was established as a game refuge in 1917. In 1980, Congress more than tripled the size of the park and renamed the area Denali National Park and Preserve. The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) enlarged the park by an additional four million acres of wilderness frontier.

This expansive area is habitat to caribou, moose and grizzly bears, along with wolves, Dall sheep, Ptarmigan, eagles, ravens and countless other species of animals and birds. There are more than 650 species of flowering plants along with mosses, fungi, algae and lichens that cover the slopes inside the park.

In 1972 the National Park Service started a bus system to protect visitors and reduce threats to the wildlife. The buses used for our Tundra Wilderness Tour look much like old school buses painted a light tan color to blend in with the landscape – but on the inside, the interiors are plush and comfortable like the motor coaches we have been traveling on during this tour.

The alpine tundra covers the ground in Denali and provides a fast food supply for the resident wildlife. Our first wildlife sighting for the day was a caribou feeding on the top of a hill to the right side of our bus. When someone on the bus spots an animal, they are to yell out and give an approximate location based on the face of a clock. So, this first sighting of the caribou, someone yelled out “CARIBOU! 10:00!!” Then, everyone tried to get a place at the window to click off their pictures before the animal moved on or went behind the bushes.

The bus has drop-down video screens that display the real-time video the bus driver is filming of the animal spotting. What we did not know, but were not surprised either, is that the DVD is available to us to purchase once our tour was over. Ours will be mailed within 2-3 weeks.

The road into Denali is not paved, but is compacted bedrock. Though the windows on the bus can be opened when animals are spotted, they are generally closed to minimize the dust coming back into the bus while the bus is traveling.

Our tour today began at the McKinley Chalet where we were picked up and traveled to the park entrance. We passed the Stony Overlook and stopped for a photo opp and continued on our way for 62 miles into the park. The scenery is as dramatic and colorful as the Grand Canyon with every color imaginable in the mountains and valleys. As the clouds moved overhead and cast shadows down below, the colors changed. It was simply breathtaking.

There is a very nice Visitors Center near the entrance along with a great book store offering a wide variety of books on the animals and history of the park.

As we traveled into the park, we passed several mountain peaks – Mt. Margaret at 5,509 ft. – Double Mountain at 5,899 ft. – Igloo Mountain at 4,800 ft. – Sable Mountain at 6,002 feet – Divide Mountain at 5,195 ft. and Polychrome Mountain at 5,790 ft. Polychrome Mountain was by far the most magnificent of them all with its multi-colored rock of Rhyolite and basalt. It is a dramatic pointed mounted with every color of brown and red tones imaginable.

After our first caribou sighting, we saw several herds of Dall sheep high on the rugged cliffs of the mountains, strategically located to protect themselves from their predators, the wolves.

While golden eagles soared above us, black ravens were also spotted along with one bird that actually had some small animal clinched tight in its talons – probably flying back to enjoy it for dinner. Though the wolves remained elusive and out of sight today, I did get a picture of a den on the side of a mountain. There are three packs of wolves that inhabit this portion of the park but dozens more packs throughout the entire 6,000 acres.

The animal that most everyone hopes to see when they enter Denali is the phenomenal Grizzly Bear. Though its fur is actually a light golden color, the grizzly is also known as the brown bear. We had three separate sightings of grizzlies today; but, by far, the one where we spotted two bears as they ate their way down the hill next to our bus was a definite grand slam!

With their fur of light golden brown, these two bears were easily spotted amongst the green grasses and tundra on the hill. They were enjoying several plant roots along their way down. As they got closer and closer to the bus, the more spectacular each picture was. We were told to be quiet as them came closer and closer to the bus so as no5t to frighten them or disturb them. But even though “we” were being quiet as told, our cameras were constantly clicking those shutters in hopes of getting one phenomenal picture. After we drove away and the windows again were closed, everyone sat back down in their seats and had a huge smile on his or her face. It was truly splendiferous!

We had two other grizzly sightings¸ but they were farther off in the distance. Some smaller animals were sighted as well including the pika (a small bunny), squirrels and a beaver; a gyrfalcon was perched on the top of a rock outcropping but was far enough away that our pictures could not pull it in close enough; and many birds.

The breathtaking scenery was everywhere you looked; and we couldn’t take our eyes off of it – even though we could have used a little cat nap as this was a 7 hour tour. We didn’t want to miss a thing – and we didn’t. It was a glorious day. While the skies above us were overcast, it did not hurt our experience in Denali National Park.

After our tour, a group of us headed over to the Alaska Salmon Bake for dinner and put our glasses together with much delight for such a fabulous day.

Tomorrow we will head south on the Alaska Railroad and McKinley Express as we end our tour of this “great land” in Anchorage.

DAY TEN - TRAVELOGUES NORTH TO ALASKA - FAIRBANKS TO DENALI

TRAVELOGUES – DAY TEN – JULY 9th – FAIRBANKS TO DENALI
HOLLAND AMERICA MS VOLENDAM
13 DAY CRUISE/TOUR
“NORTH TO ALASKA”

I start today’s travelogue with a heavy heart. Jim’s Dad has been ill for the past few months, and we got word yesterday that he was not doing well. We tried to get a flight out of Fairbanks before our tour left, but we could not do that; so to ensure we could continue moving south and try to get an earlier flight home, we left early in the morning with our tour group on the train headed for Denali.

When we got into Fairbanks, we were talking about Jim’s Dad, and Jim shared a story with me. Both Jim and his Dad served in the Navy on the USS Edson – but at different times. The code name for the Edson was “Fairbanks”. We think it was ironic that we were in Fairbanks on this particular day. Jim’s Dad also loved trains. We boarded our train in Fairbanks and headed south to Denali. Unfortunately, while we were on the train, we received word that Jim’s Dad has passed away. So, we dedicated our train ride today from Fairbanks to Denali to Jim’s Dad.

Two engines pulled our train of four Holland America domed cars and three from Princess along with several others for the Alaska Railroad. We passed by the University of Alaska as we left town. The University of Alaska is home to a fabulous museum; and if you get the chance, you should go visit that.

We continued south for our five hour ride on the rails through absolutely gorgeous country; and we were all lucky enough to become official members of the “30% Club”. We are among the 30% who actually have seen Mt. McKinley.

It was a gloriously clear day outside with very few clouds in the sky. It was a bit cooler than it was yesterday. Today we hit a high of about 60 degrees. The tour guide on our rail car gave us a few minutes notice that the “Great One” was going to be coming into view. Many of us went downstairs from our domed car seats and stood out on the platform in between the rail cars so we would perfectly clear views of the mountain. And, we were not disappointed in any way, shape or form. Through the low brush alongside the rail tracks appeared this magnificent mountain – snow capped and standing proud all alone off in the distance. What is so fabulous about McKinley is that it is the highest peak on the continent at 20,320 feet. McKinley reigns supreme in the Alaska Mountain range; and because of its height, it creates its own weather.

We continued on our journey passed through the meadows full of Alaska fireweed, lupin, along with many other dainty, low wild flowers that could be spotted all over the ground. We passed by rivers and troughs of glacial waters that were a dramatic contrast to the low brush and evergreens. Along the way, we were lucky to spot a moose off to the left side of the rail cars.

Once we arrived in Denali at the McKinley Chalet Resort, we were given our room keys. Our luggage was brought to us, so we didn’t even have to collect it and get it to our room. We found our room and then took of to explore the area. Because the McKinley Chalet’s are so spread out over several acres, there are shuttles that will pick you up at either the Moose stop, Bear stop, Caribou stop, etc. and transport you up the hill to the main lodge. This was especially nice for us as we were in the furthest room complex from lodge which is along the highway – our room was only about 50 feet from the trail along river below.

We walked across the highway and walked along the wooden plank sidewalks that are home to a plethora of gift shops and restaurants. While we were walking along, we met up with more people from our group and so we all enjoyed a light lunch and just explored the area. The McKinley Chalets are just north of the Denali Park entrance and the Denali Visitors Center. On one side of the highway is a dramatic mountain and as you turn and face the other way, you face a beautiful, vast wilderness of hills and mountains as far as you can see. Several people from our group either took white water rafting trips down the glacial river or did a helicopter flight up to a glacier.

At 5:30 p.m. our group met for a Cabin Nite dinner at the Chalets for a family style dinner and show put on by the waiters and waitresses, bartender, etc. The show was a musical all about the discovery of Denali and one “Fannie Quigley”. There was participation from the guests as well. It was very well done. The piano player was playing music from the early 1900’s and getting everyone to join in for a sing-a-long at one point. Dinner was served family style and included delicious and tender ribs, baked salmon, baked beans, whole kernel corn, homemade biscuits and was absolutely delicious. Dessert was a mixed berry cobbler with whipped topping. Those who enjoyed the dessert all proudly displayed their newly dyed “blue” teeth – thanks to the berries in the cobbler.

After Cabin Nite, several of us enjoyed going up to the Crow’s Nest, where we all went out onto the deck and enjoyed a cocktail and toasted Jim’s Dad and our train ride from Fairbanks to Denali today.

So, though it was a sad day for us, we know that Mel was with us on our train ride in spirit; and we know that we were in the right place because of the coincidences of the day. We cherish our memories and know that every day is so precious. Good night…

Thursday, June 17, 2010

12 days and counting!

In just twelve short days we will be on the road again! We will be flying from San Diego to Vancouver, British Columbia and boarding the beautiful Holland America Volendam for a 13 day adventure on water and land.

As a travel agent and an Alaska Destination Specialist, this is a trip that we have been looking forward to because it will take us to places we have only dreamed about visiting.

We will start our adventure in Vancouver - the home of the Winter Olympics in 2010. As we sail out of Vancouver in the late afternoon, we will pass Stanley Park (one of our favorite places to visit in Vancouver) and our voyage will begin North to Alaska.

We will enter the Strait of Georgia and travel along Vancouver Island which is the home of a resident pod of orca whales known as "J" pod. Granny and Ruffles are the two oldest members of this pod. Granny is the matriarch and thought to be almost 90years old! Along with her son, Ruffles, they lead the pod through the waters in and around Vancouver Island. There are over 40 members of this pod. We hope to get a glimpse of them gliding graciously through the waters as we pass by!

From Vancouver we will continue on up the Inside Passage past Wrangell and Petersberg to Tracy Arm Fjord which is off of Stepens Passage across from Admiralty Island. We will visit the North and the South Sawyer Glaciers (Twin Sawyer Glaciers) and then spend an afternoon in Juneau, the capital of Alaska.

From Juneau, we will continue up Stephens Passage to Lyn Canal where we will cruise to Skagway. We will disembark the ship in Skagway and will spend the night there. That afternoon, Jim and I are scheduled to take a float plane ride!

The next morning we will board the White Pass and Yukon Railroad traveling along the same route that the gold miners hiked one after the other in 1898 hoping to strike it rich in the gold fields in the Yukon. We'll visit Lake Bennet and eventually arrive in Whitehorse, where we will spend the night and enjoy the Frantic Follies Vaudeville Revue.

From Whitehorse, we will board a motor coach to Dawson City and stay overnight in the Klondike National Historic Site. We will then visit Dawson City or Tombstone Park and learn more about the Gold Rush and visit the gold fields and explore where a full range of wildlife roams free.

On Day 8 we will cruise the Yukon River on the MV Yukon Queen II catamaran and hear tales of river pilors, mail carriers, prospectors and Mounties as we travel to the small Alaskan town of Eagle.

A motor coach will take us up the Alaska Range and along the TransAlaska Pipeline to Fairbanks on Day 9 where we will visit Gold Dredge No, 8 and actually give a good try at panning for gold ourselves.

On Day 10 we will board the McKinley Explorer (Alaska Railroad), and travel along the scenic byway as we travel through the heart of Alaska to Denali National Park where we will stay for two nights. Not only do we hope to get to see Mt. McKinley, we have high hopes of seeing a lot of wildlife on our Tundra Wilderness Tour. We could see Caribou,moose, grizzly bears, wolves, Dall sheep, bald eagles and
much more.

From Denali on Day 12, we will again board the McKinley Explorer and travel the rail down to Anchorage. In Anchorage, we have plans to meet up with my dear pen pal Pattie and enjoy some time catching up with her. Our last day will find us on a 26 Glacier Cruise out of Whittier that will take us into the Prince William Sound to visit 26 "named" glaciers including those in College Fjord. We will see all types of glaciers including Alpine (hanging), Piedmont and Tidewater glaciers( glaciers traveling down valleys towards the ocean). Getting up close to these towering masses of ice, we will be able to "hear" them move while they groan and crack as they move ever so slowly to the icy glacial waters below. There will be many "bergie bits" (small chunks of ice floating in the water) and the glaciers will be brilliant colors of blue and turquoise.

And, as with all vacations our time will end sooner than we want and we will find ourselves on our way home. We hope you'll join us on June 30th as we take to the skies to Vancouver and set sail on the first day of our journey. I'll be posting blogs all along the way, so you can come along if you want!

Now - I've got to start packing!